One whiff tells you this bubbly is in a league of its own. It’s not the toast or the lees, not the lime-scented fruit or the doughy notes; it’s something indefinable, but complex and refined. That pedigree carries through in the mouth, where the fruit is modulated. The impression is of acidity and elegance, although the fruit shows up in the finish. Terrific now, but has the balance and harmony to last for a lot longer.——S.H.(12/1/2000)—— 93
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