The 2003 Dhronhofberger Riesling Spatlese Sangerei comes from a dimple-like parcel in the Dhronhofberg with considerable quantities of finely-eroded, iron- and mica-rich slate that promoted desirable acid-retention in this record-breaking dry, scorching vintage. Right now, in fact, there is something of a tug of war going on between rich plum and tropical fruits (signaled on the nose) and grapefruit and gooseberry tartness. The finish is sweet and gaudy, featuring root beer, plum paste, tropical fruit and candied grapefruit rind. This wine of undeniable concentration may well simply need a bit more time to sort itself out. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300.
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