Abarbanel sells itself short by calling this “White Shiraz,” which would imply it’s like White Zin—simple and sweet. But it’s not. In fact, it tastes bone dry, bright and fresh, with zippy lemon, herb, grapefruit and cherry notes. Quite mineral-like on the finish. The back label reveals it’s really Syrah rose from France, but the front label implies it’s from Australia. Clearly the marketing folks are confused. Kosher.——J.M.(4/3/2004)—— 86