Nearly the color of Sherry, this is pure burnished gold, which announces oxidation and/or some heavy oaking. Aromas of butterscotch and baked apples are momentarily intriguing, but in the mouth the wine is lean and acidic, with a fiery quality. Safe to say this is not the Albarino most of us are seeking. ——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 83
