The weak link in this otherwise strong portfolio is the 2011 Contrapunto. It has a light, patisserie-scented bouquet with hints of apple blossom and pear. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, but thereafter it is very neutral and needs more fruit expression. Drink now.
Bodega Granbazan is located in Tremoedo, in the Salnes sub-zone of Rias Baixas. Owners Manuel Otero and his nephew Jesus Alvarez own 17 hectares of 30-year-old Albarino vines that is supplemented by long-term contract with growers. Grapes are hand-picked, de-stemmed and undergo six to eight hours of cold maceration, while fermentation is undertaken in concrete and steel tanks using both natural and cultured yeast. I adore their evocative, rather old-fashioned labels with their maritime-themed drawings and equally, more importantly, I loved the wines inside. These are pure Rias Baixas Albarinos that brim over with crispness, flavor and authenticity.
Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com