Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Brand, Alsace Grand Cru, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2766

Heady and decadent gardenia, rose petal, marzipan, and litchi on the nose of Boxler’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Brand have their counterparts on an expansive, glycerin-slicked, and unabashedly sweet palate. The Reserve bottling has a richer core and at the same time greater primary juiciness, but this Brand is certainly impressively persistent in its confectionary way. I suspect the same prognosis for 5-7 years’ enjoyment will apply to this as to that Reserve. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Litchi and Persian melon; rose petal and honeysuckle; nutmeg and almond paste gorgeously scent Boxler’s 2008 Gewurztraminer Brand, whose floral, brown-spiced, and succulently-fruited profusion persists on a creamy buoyant palate. Sheer juicy exuberance and incalculable elegance seem to be what keeps 60 grams of sugar from becoming cloying. On the contrary, its finish seems almost to glide weightlessly, while mounting along with the desire to take the next sip. Follow some for 15-20 years if you can. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Effusively floral (rose petal and gardenia) aromatics suggest the effect of this sites distinctive terroir on Boxler’s 2004 Gewurztraminer Brand. Creamy in the mouth yet with a remarkable sense of delicacy and lift for a Gewurztraminer, much less one so rich, this spreads honey, caramel, candied mint and yellow plum preserves across the palate, positively billows with inner-mouth florals, and finishes with considerable sweetness not inappropriate to its family of flavors, and complimented by malt-like low tones in the finish.The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185