Albert Boxler Riesling Sommerberg, Alsace Grand Cru, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4644

The “regular” Boxler 2009 Riesling Sommerberg originates in upper-elevation parcels just northeast of the village of Niedermorschwihr. Lily-of-the-valley, honeysuckle, pear, and quince on the nose reprise on a creamy, caressing palate, underlain by sweetness (from ten grams of residual sugar) sufficiently subtle and well-integrated that this wine can pass for dry. Hints of candied lime peel and cinnamon add zest to a satisfyingly long finish of liquid perfume and lusciously ripe pear and quince. Plan on enjoying this over the next 5-7 years. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

A nose of musky narcissus, white peach, and lime in Boxler’s 2008 Riesling Sommerberg has its counterpart on a subtly oily yet bright, sassily citric palate, leading into a vibratory exchange of fruit, salt, iodine, and wet stone in its long, mouthwatering and lip-licking finish. This is a classic if youthfully slightly spare Boxler Sommerberg apt reveal further nuance with time and be worth following for at least 12-15 years. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

This Riesling reveals its granite terroir, which first gives it a wondrous simplicity, then complexity and authority. Its delicate acidity will protect it and it will gently mature over the years. It is inspirational, precise, fresh, dry and lingers on the palate. Alc: 13.5%.