Domaine Albert Morot Les Cents Vignes, Beaune Premier Cru, France

莫羅特酒莊仙藤（伯恩一級園）紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3599

The 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Cents-Vignes has a pleasant, vanilla bouquet with plenty of plush red fruit: raspberry coulis and strawberry preserve. The oak feels nicely assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly herbaceous opening, however it is nicely focused with a touch of spice enlivening the structured finish. Give this Beaune another year in bottle to coalesce. Drink 2014-2019. Albert Morot was a negociant for its first seven decades until they acquired a parcel of vines in 1890. The gloriously named Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry has been responsible for the wines since 2000, when his aunt (great-granddaughter of Albert Morot), Francoise Choppin, retired. Henceforth, they have concentrated on domaine-bottled wines. Traditionally they held back on the level of new oak, although this has crept up in recent vintages as well as longer elevage. Fruit is handpicked, bunches totally de-stemmed, and bottling done without fining or filtration. This was a solid set of 2011s with the exception of an under-performing Beaune Toussaints. Otherwise, the wines exhibited judicious winemaking, clean, fresh fruit, and poised finishes. While they did not elicit superlatives this time, I suspect that more benevolent vintages such as 2009 or 2010 may be worth investigating. For now, these 2011s represent fine Pinot Noirs that deserves another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083 and through Berry Brothers & Rudd (UK)

The 2009 Beaune Cent-Vignes is gorgeous. Juicy dark cherries, flowers, mint and minerals come to life in the glass in this deep, expressive wine. The tannins are quite firm and the structure is imposing, so readers will have to be patient. There is little doubt the Cent-Vignes will be stellar in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York City; tel. (212) 239-1275

The Morot 2007 Beaune Cent Vignes smells more of red meat and game than it does of site-typical cherry. With prominent but not aggressive acidity allied to a satiny texture, and notes of fruit pit and bitter herbs adding pungency, this understated, proportional wine should give considerable pleasure over at least the next 4-6 years. Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry was among those growers to report that more rigorous sorting was required for his 2008 fruit than had been needed the previous vintage. I tasted his 2008s from tank, where they were spending a bit longer than usual, in order to gas-out after very late malos. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083