Alexander Gaston Reserve, Judean Hills, Israel

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The 2009 “Gaston” Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, all sourced now from Kefar Shmay in the Upper Galilee and aged for 20 months in a mixture of French and American oak. These Reserves come from somewhat younger (although still respectable) vines than on Alexander’s prestige bottlings, the youngest here being the Shiraz (since 2000) and the oldest being the Cabernet Sauvignon (since 1997). This hangs together nicely if you are a Northern Rhone fan, notwithstanding the blend. Rather gamey, with more than a little of a sauvage element, it is bright and a bit tight, without a lot of mid-palate concentration, but it feels elegant and charming. Of the regular reserves, but for the Cabernet, I think this would be my pick for its character and distinctiveness – but you have to like its gamey style. Drink now- 2016. Note that the 2007s are current – they were just submitted by the winery. Some of them received extended oak aging, which may partly account for their late submission.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118

The 2006 GASTON RESERVE is a blend of Merlot (76%) and 12% each of Grenache and Syrah, sourced from vineyards in the Upper Galilee and Jerusalem Hills. It spent 18 months in a mixture of French and American oak and was just released into the marketplace in June, 2009. Elegant and softly textured, it has pleasing flavors and considerable appeal, with the Syrah and Grenache asserting themselves, as well a tinge of oak. There are enough relatively ripe tannins to provide a backbone, vibrancy and assertiveness—this is on the lighter side, but very nicely focused, hardly a simple fruit bomb. Although it lacks some mid-palate concentration, it is beautifully structured and a pleasure to drink. It does become a bit austere with air. Drink now-2015. Alexander is an under-the-radar pick for those looking beyond the most familiar Israeli names. “The Great” series is a premium, late released wine. The latest release of that brand is the 2005 Cabernet; the 2006 will not be released until next year. The Grand Reserve is one step above it—late released and produced only in exceptional years. Although Israeli wines as a group provide relatively few bargains, there are some decent price to quality ratios here for the low and mid-level wines. Many will be about as happy with the regular Reserves as with the upper level wines. More or less unknown in the USA due to its lack of an importer until recently, this winery has some potential. Not all of these may be available quite yet. Prices given are estimates of what they will be in the marketplace—they may yet change.Importer: Bayfield Importing, Long Island City, N.Y.; tel: (718) 482-0200.