Supple, dark, and laced with licorice, cassis, and clove, this well-crafted Bordeaux blend does not scream high alcohol, though it tops 14.6%. What keeps it focused and precise are the vivid acids and sculpted tannins. It’s the work of a young winemaker who is improving dramatically with each new vintage, even as his vineyard puts out better and better fruit.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 94