Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor Chablis Bel Air et Clardys, Burgundy, France

點擊次數(shù)：2082

The 2009 Chablis Bel Air et Clardy emerges from the glass with exotic scents of tangerines, apricots and yellow peaches. Mineral notes follow on the mid-palate, giving the wine an undeniably attractive shape and proportion that follow through to the finish. This is a big, dramatic wine that deftly balances overt fruit with insistent, driving minerality. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. My visit to this tiny estate in Courgis was a highlight of my recent stay in Chablis. These fabulous wines from Olivier and Alice de Moor are all the more remarkable because the de Moors own no premier or grand cru land. Through diligent, painstaking work Alice and Oliver de Moor have elevated their wines well above their humble pedigrees, showing just how much can be done when the focus is purely on growing the best fruit possible. Biodynamic farming and artisan winemaking are the rule here. The wines are aged 10-12 months in oak, see one racking and are bottled with no fining or filtration. Simply put, these are some of the most pure, striking wines readers will come across in Chablis, where so many wines are quite industrial. I was blown away by what I tasted. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fine, handcrafted wines. The world could use a few more vignerons like the de Moors. I have listed the wines from Le Vendangeur Masque, the de Moor’s negociant line, separately.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

The 2008 Chablis Bel Air & Clardy – from the two named parcels – is another De Moor bottling that exhibits impressive brightness and grip as well as strong citricity and minerality. But here there is generous juiciness of primary fruit and depth of flavors, including toasted hazelnut and almond as well as orange rind, and both maritime and quarry-like elements. I would look for this long-finishing beauty to reward at least 3-5 years of attention. The high acids and sheer concentration of Alice and Olivier De Moor’s 2008 raw material came close to getting the better of a couple of their wines, making for a collection qualitatively more heterogeneous than usual, but culminating in the best Chablis I can recall from this address (which I have been visiting off and on for more than 15 years).Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

The De Moor 2007 Chablis Bel Air & Clardy – from the two named parcels, and raised in almost entirely older barriques (as is the norm for the entire De Moor range) – is almost as uncompromisingly bright and palpably dense as the corresponding Bourgogne Chitry. High-toned lemon oil and kirsch aromas are mingled with pungent suggestions of wood smoke in the nose, and toasted nuts lend low-toned richness to a blazingly citric palate, in which a positively shimmering interchange with salt, chalk, and fruit pit elements rivets ones attention. That this harbors only 12.2% alcohol enhances its sense of lift and refreshment, but also its sense of sharpness. This is a striking and, in a sense, classic expression of Chablis, but one for lovers of acidity and mineral impressions. I expect it will be worth following for at least 4-5 years. Beginning their harvest in mid-September, the De Moors made two passes on nearly every parcel to adapt to irregular ripening that was a legacy of hail. The upshot was thus another labor-intensive and low-yielding vintage, but there the similarities with 2006 end, as the character of the De Moor 2007s is strikingly different; and they are more consistently excellent.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191