Altocedro Gran Reserva Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

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The 2010 Gran Reserva Malbec has an extremely oaky nose that dominates any vestige of fruit (24 months in new French oak.) The palate is ripe and seamless in the mouth, although this is a masterclass in the application of wood than fruit expression or terroir. It is as seductive as it is made to be. Drink now-2016. Karim Mussi Saffie founded Altocedro in 1998, having worked in the wine industry for three decades. Altocedro owns three vineyards in La Consulta totalling 59-acres that are fed both through flood and drip irrigation. There are parcels of vine up to 70-years in age. There are some good wines here, although they were occasionally blighted by excessive use of oak disproportionate to the level of fruit.Importer: Vino del Sol; www.vinodelsol.com

The 2009 Gran Reserva Malbec is blended with 5% Semillon and aged in new Burgundy barrels for 24 months. Unfortunately the oak totally dominates the aromatics at the expense of fruit or terroir expression. The palate is sweet and chewy on the entry with a sweet, orange sorbet-tinged finish but yet again, it is wood, wood, wood all the way, which is a shame as there is a very interesting wine trying to surface. Drink now. Karim Mussi Saffie founded Altocedro in 1998, having worked in the wine industry for three decades. Altocedro owns three vineyards in La Consulta totalling 59-acres that are fed both through flood and drip irrigation. There are parcels of vine up to 70-years in age. There are some good wines here, although they were occasionally blighted by excessive use of oak disproportionate to the level of fruit.Importer: Vino del Sol; www.vinodelsol.com

The 2008 Malbec Gran Reserva interestingly contains 3% Semillon in its blend. The infusion of white juice appears to elevate the aromatics, giving them an extra dimension. Aromas of cherry blossom, exotic spices, truffle, and assorted black fruits lead to a voluminous, concentrated, plush Malbec with a pure 60-second finish. Give this pleasure-bent effort another 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it from 2014 to 2023. Importer: Vino Del Sol; www.vinodelsol.com

The 2007 Malbec Gran Reserva was sourced from vines averaging 97 years of age and was whole cluster fermented in new Burgundy barrels with native yeasts. A glass-staining purple/black color, it gives up an enthralling bouquet of scorched earth, truffle, espresso, black cherry, and blackberry. Dense, rich, and brooding on the palate, it has the material to age for a minimum of 4-6 years. This layered, savory, lengthy effort will deliver a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2027. Altocedro’s wines are all sourced from 3-old-vine vineyards in La Consulta.Importer: Vino Del Sol, Monterey, CA; tel. (800) VDS-8086; fax (831) 646-9463