Ansgar Clusserath Vom Schiefer Trocken Riesling, Mosel, Germany

安斯加爾克魯塞拉斯歐姆席費爾雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：2660

Light, with focused acidity behind the peach and citrus notes, accented by spice and mineral hints. Tails off on the finish. Drink now. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–AZ??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Clusserath’s basic 2010 Riesling trocken Vom Schiefer delivers fresh apple and lime dusted with lemon zest and crushed stone. A bit spare and tart, it nonetheless exhibits a sense of clarity and bitterness-free refreshment that I would have welcomed in the corresponding 2009. I would plan on enjoying this over the next couple of years. (The corresponding feinherb bottling – identical in starting must – was slightly awkwardly sweet-sour on the occasion of my tasting.) Eva Clusserath was among the many to experience a commercially depressing 2010 vintage. “We went as many as three or four times into the same vineyard to optimize ripeness,” she reports, and in the face of all that expensive labor, volumes were down by close to half. Clusserath double-salt de-acidified the must for her basic dry wine, but otherwise says she waited as long as she could to harvest (beginning only near the end of October) and arrived at total acidity in her other musts of around ten grams, extremely moderate by vintage standards (not to mention lower than Clusserath’s husband Philipp Wittmann registered in Rheinhessen!). And as usual at this address, a day or more of skin contact was permitted for the dry wines; and all of the wines stayed on their fine lees until bottling, which ranged from late May though July. Together with losses during fermentation and to tartrate precipitation, these factors resulted in wines whose finished acid levels would not even raise an eyebrow on the Mosel, something one can claim for very few 2010s. Yet ironically, despite that analytical fact, these wines are recognizably of their vintage in terms of their relatively sharp corners and in the best instances productive tension, vivacity and invigoration.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

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