Ansgar Clusserath Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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Pink grapefruit, cassis, and apple are headliners in the Clusserath-Weiler 2006 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese, a site-typical, effusive and nobly sweet Riesling of striking creaminess and richness. Yet this wine also displays the wafting elegance and levitation, the infectiously juicy fruit of which nobly sweet 2006 Riesling is capable. Furthermore, the balance of sweetness is nearly ideal: high on paper but unobtrusive on the palate. Clusserath really practices the traditional virtues of slow, ambient yeast fermentation essentially un- choreographed by the vintner, while Nature or the Deity seems to unerringly tend to the balance. The finish is quieter than I expected, but lingers seductively. It’s a sure bet that this will be far more intriguing in 10-12 years and will keep twice that long. Eva Clusserath keeps going from strength to strength, and made a success of 2006 (if one overlooks very small yields). This year, parcels of old vines she has acquired in Piesport and Dhron supplement her portfolio. The bad news is that she did this to compensate for many wonderful old vineyards she lost as part of the just-completed communal restructuring and replanting in Trittenheim. A prohibition is now (at least temporarily) in place against planting ungrafted vines, and there is not enough old plant material available. Even were clonal selections that she could have planted today to reach maturity (and she late middle age!), says Clusserath, they would never approach the quality of what she lost.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300