Old vines in the center of this great site inform Clusserath’s 2006 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese. Honeysuckle, grapefruit, and apple in the nose lead into a rich, creamy palate that preserves a core of juicy fresh fruit. Refinement, elegance, and delicacy are the watchwords for this no doubt 15-20 year Riesling. Eva Clusserath keeps going from strength to strength, and made a success of 2006 (if one overlooks very small yields). This year, parcels of old vines she has acquired in Piesport and Dhron supplement her portfolio. The bad news is that she did this to compensate for many wonderful old vineyards she lost as part of the just-completed communal restructuring and replanting in Trittenheim. A prohibition is now (at least temporarily) in place against planting ungrafted vines, and there is not enough old plant material available. Even were clonal selections that she could have planted today to reach maturity (and she late middle age!), says Clusserath, they would never approach the quality of what she lost.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300