Antoniolo’s 2006 Nebbiolo Coste della Sesia could be used to teach a class on the unique qualities of Nebbiolo cultivated in the northern reaches of Piedmont. This bottling is made from wine that doesn’t make it into the estate’s top Gattinaras, yet the hallmark qualities of those wines are amply present here, although naturally in a smaller-scaled style. Typical aromas of mountain herbs, mint and pine emerge from the glass, yet there is plenty of ripe, plump fruit to provide balance, something that can’t always be said about the wines from this northerly appellation. The Coste delle Sesia is an overachiever in its category. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411