The 2004 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Rocca del Piro is delicate, graceful and flat-out beautiful. Sweet cherries, herbs, leather, fennel, tar, spices and orange peel meld together in this delicate, somewhat fleeting wine. The Rocca del Piro is deceptively medium in body, as Nebbiolo often is, yet impresses for its length and clean, mineral-laced finish. It is weightless, gracious and totally sensual from the very first taste. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity.Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500