Az Agr F Ili Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica

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Readers who want to get a sense of what top-flight Verdicchio is all about without spending too much money will want to check out Bisci’s 2006 Verdicchio di Matelica. This richly-textured, full-bodied white changes constantly in the glass, revealing new dimensions to its honeyed fruit with every taste. The high altitude vineyards here have helped give this wine gorgeous aromatics and notable freshness. It is a terrific effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 1998 Verdicchio di Matelica displays a moderately intense bouquet of lemon custard and mineral aromas, light body, deliciously fruity flavors, and super balance, freshness, and crispness. Drink it over the next year.A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Undoubtedly one of the finest Verdicchios I have ever tasted, the 1994 Verdicchio di Matelica exhibits a distinctive, strong, nutty, dry, austere character. I suspect this wine will be controversial, but it comes alive when served with food. It reveals excellent freshness and purity, as well as surprisingly long finish. This interesting, provocative wine should drink well for 1-2 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411