Undoubtedly one of the finest Verdicchios I have ever tasted, the 1994 Verdicchio di Matelica Fogliano is close to outstanding. A light to medium straw color is followed by a dry, austere wine with a sweet, ripe peach, and nut-scented nose, and fleshy, medium to full-bodied flavors. This full-bodied wine makes a forceful impact on the palate. It will drink well with strongly flavored, personality filled dishes. Given its depth and size, it should drink well for several more years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411