Behrens & Hitchcock Merlot, Napa Valley, USA

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An elegant, restrained, understated (atypical for B & H) effort is the 2003 Merlot Napa (600 cases; 15.2% alcohol; 78% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon). Copious amounts of mocha, black currants, loamy soil, earth, and spice box emerge from this Bordeaux-like blend. With tremendous ripeness, finesse, and subtleness, it should be consumed over the next decade. I can’t say enough good things about Behrens and Hitchcock. This is the type of winery operation that gives hope to aspiring home winemakers who want to make it in the big time. They have followed their dreams, unearthed top vineyards that were available to everybody, and are making non-interventionalistic wines of extraordinary personality and character.(Release date 6/05)Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206

The medium-bodied, ripe 2002 Merlot Napa (all from the Jaeger Vineyard) possesses good fruit and richness, but it was not singing the day I tasted it. I admire what Les Behrens, Bob Hitchcock, their wives, friends, and lunatic dog are doing at their winery and cellars on the top of Spring Mountain. They are obsessed fanatics who make wine with no compromises ... obviously my kind of people.Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206