Behrens & Hitchcock Fortuna Vineyard Merlot, Oakville, USA

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The 2002 Merlot Fortuna Vineyard emerges from an Oakville vineyard situated north of Rudd Estate. This superb effort displays a big, thick, juicy, black cherry and currant-scented perfume with hints of smoke, licorice, cedar, and leather in the background. Rich and full-bodied, it is a terrific example of this varietal. I admire what Les Behrens, Bob Hitchcock, their wives, friends, and lunatic dog are doing at their winery and cellars on the top of Spring Mountain. They are obsessed fanatics who make wine with no compromises ... obviously my kind of people.Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206

My favorite of the 2000 Merlots is the Fortuna Vineyard (345 cases). At 15.5% alcohol, this is no shy wine. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by exceptional black currant, blackberry, tobacco, and creosote-drenched aromas as well as flavors, lower acidity than its two siblings, full-bodied, fleshy flavors, and tremendous purity and intensity. This large-scaled yet elegant offering should drink well for 12-15 years. Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206