Behrens & Hitchcock Herrick Moulds Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA

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The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Moulds Family Vineyard (92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc) is a brilliant effort revealing some minerality as well as lots of blueberry and blackberry fruit intermixed with hints of licorice and smoke. Full-bodied, fleshy, opulent, rich and long, there is enough energy from the acidity and tannin to frame this big, rich Cabernet Sauvignon from the Oak Knoll District in southern Napa. It should drink well for 15-20 years. The always interesting, creative Behrens Family operation high on Spring Mountain has fashioned another enticing portfolio of wines with some of the most creepy and funny labels in the wine business. The labels often belie just how serious this estate is about its vineyards and the quality of its wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Moulds Family Vineyard is a gorgeous wine laced with super-ripe dark fruit, flowers, licorice and cassis. It possesses striking inner perfume and lovely balance in a sleek style best enjoyed on the young side. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Behrens Family Winery. These bold, racy wines are long on exuberance and sheer personality. Tel. (707) 963-1774; www.ernaschein.com

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Moulds Family Vineyard is an elegant yet authoritative Cabernet displaying lots of black currant, underbrush, cedar and incense notes. It is a spicy, ripe, round, impeccably well-made wine with richness, purity and well-integrated oak. Already delicious, it should drink well for 15 years. Les and Lisa Behrens are two of my favorite people in Napa Valley for the simple reason that they love wine and make gorgeously delicious wines with a fun approach that is reflected in their creative labels. They had issues with some of the synthetic corks they used early on, but they are now back to true corks and are, hopefully, on the road to even greater success and good fortune. All their wines now appear under the label Erna Schein. Les and Lisa are like truffle dogs in terms of sniffing out somewhat underrated top sites for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Early on they discovered many vineyards that were later swiped away by people with more money. However, the Behrens still have a loaded deck of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards. If you haven’t yet discovered these wines, it’s about time you do. If there is a future in the wine world for real people, Lisa and Les Behrens have to succeed. Tel. (707) 963-1774; www.ernaschein.com

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Herrick-Moulds includes small amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot, resulting in a Graves-like nose of scorched earth, crushed rocks, and blueberry and black cherry fruit. The wine is medium to full-bodied with moderate tannin, and outstanding concentration. It can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. (Not yet released) Known as Behrens and Hitchcock until the departure of Bob Hitchcock, this artisinal winery on the top of Spring Mountain has changed its name to Erna Schein. The proprietors, Les and Lisa Behrens, continue to fine tune an intriguing portfolio of wines. Because of disappointing results from synthetic closures, they have now gone back to traditional cork. Lisa is widely regarded as one of Napa’s most capable viticulturists, and appears to have a knack for finding forgotten vineyard treasures. In addition to the name change, the Behrens seem to be moving away from varietal names, using instead a series of colorful, often provocative labels. All the following wines are flavorful, exuberant, full-bodied offerings made with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. They represent true low-tech wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774; Fax (707) 963-8206

the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Erna Schein Herrick-Moulds has blueberry and blackberry fruit, minerality, a hint of white flowers, an unctuous texture (in keeping with the B & H style), full body and loads of fruit and purity. This is a hedonistic, lush, heavy Cabernet Sauvignon that is drinking beautifully at age ten, but will certainly keep for at least another decade.