Domaine Billaud-Simon Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru, France

比約西蒙酒莊布福迪斯（夏布利特級(jí)園）干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6240

Satiny and charming, the 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir wafts from the glass with notes of peach, citrus oil and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it's bright and lively, with a nicely defined finish.

Fragrant and exotic, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir bursts with notes of white flowers, orange rind, musky peach and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with lively acids, a fleshy core and a long, floral and intensely saline finish.

Notes of green apple, dried white flowers and subtle reduction introduce the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a medium to full-bodied, concentrated wine with good depth and promising structural tension. It has the energy and balance to develop well in the cellar. This is one of the highlights of the range in 2016.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir has a clean and fresh bouquet with hints of blackberry leaf complementing the citrus fruit and cold granitic aromas. The palate is well balanced with precise citrus fruit, a keen line of acidity and plenty of mineral tension. There is a sense of animation and energy to this Vaudésir, and I can see it ageing beautifully over a decade or more. This is an outstanding Vaudésir from winemaker Olivier Bailly.

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir has a crisp and precise, granitic nose that blossoms with aeration. The palate is very well-focused with good depth, hints of orange peel, tangerine and a dash of ginger livening up the finish that feels long in the mouth. Great potential here. It is confusing having both a Samuel Billaud and a Billaud-Simon producing wines in Chablis, but unfortunately that is the case while the intra-family dispute goes on. One hopes it is resolved sooner rather than later. Charles Louis Noel Billaud established the estate in 1815, thereby making it one of the forefathers of the region. Bernard Billaud returned to the domaine in 1991, whereupon he seized the opportunity to ratchet up the quality by installing a pneumatic press and stainless steel tanks. I have tasted the wines regularly here in the UK and they have always been impressive. For sure, the 2012s were perhaps a little more inconsistent due to the challenges of the growing season. But the grand crus certainly deliver where it matters – in the glass – while I appreciate the premier crus remaining true to their respective terroirs. Post-script: As this report went to print, news filtered through with regard to the sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon to Maison Faiveley, giving them a strong foothold in the region. How this will impact Samuel Billaud remains to be seen, though it clearly thwarts any hopes of him returning to farming the vines that he once tended (wouldn’t it be a twist if Faiveley subsequently appointed him winemaker!). Exact details are yet to emerge, but hopefully all parties can move forward. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900