The 2009 Chablis Fourchaume is a distinctly rounder, oilier style of Chablis. It caresses the palate with soft, generous fruit and an inviting personality. The wine gains depth and mid-palate vinosity on the round, compelling finish. This, too, is another strong effort. The Fourchaume was also vinified and aged exclusively in steel; what comes through is the personality of the site. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season.Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900