Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Tete d'Or, Burgundy, France

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Produced from the domaine's holdings, the 2018 Chablis Tête d'Or exhibits notions of crisp golden orchard fruit, dried white flowers, peach and clear honey, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive palate that's deeper and more concentrated than the regular bottling.

One of the region's shrewd purchases is the 2017 Chablis Tête d'Or, an incipiently complex wine that derives from the domaine's most propitiously sited parcels. Opening in the glass with scents of green apple, lemon, oyster shell, smoke and dried white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, with an incisive spine of acidity and a tight-knit core that will reward at least a couple of years in the cellar.

The 2016 Chablis Tête d'Or is a real success this year, wafting from the glass with notes of preserved lemon, honeysuckle and oyster shell. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and concentrated, with good depth, succulent acids and a saline finish. It's a classy representation of the appellation that will be immediately approachable, and it comes recommended.

The 2014 Chablis Tete d'Or, a parcel selection from 28-year-old vines of which around 20% is raised in French oak, demonstrated a little reduction on the nose that obscured some of the fruit concentration. The palate is simple with sour lemon and orange rind on the entry, nice weight in the mouth with good delineation on the finish. Afford this 12 months in bottle to see if it can address the reduction issue, because there is a decent Chablis here.

The 2013 Chablis Tête d’Or comes from 28-year-old vines and sees around 12 months aging. It has a reserved but nicely defined, marine-influenced bouquet that unfolds nicely in the glass. The palate is fresh with bitter lemon on the entry. There is a pleasing stoniness coming through and a precise albeit short finish. Given the vintage this constitutes a good effort and a satisfying, traditional Chablis that should age over the next 3 or 4 years in bottle.