Boccadigabbia Akronte Cabernet Sauvignon, Marches, Italy

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Elvidio Alessandri's 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte is an unusual wine that marries Cabernet Sauvignon to the wild and beautiful territory of Marche, Italy, where seashores meet steep mountains. This expression from Boccadigabbia, one of the headline estates of the region, shows dark fruit nuances, spice and plum, all followed by a rich, full-bodied delivery. The wine ages in barrique for 15 months with new and neutral barrel. There is ample power here (with 15% alcohol) and substantial texture and layering. The age of the wine contributes to the long, polished quality of tannins. Some 3,600 bottles were made.

Boccadigabbia's 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte is a darkly extracted and concentrated red wine that flaunts an impressive level of intensity. This Cabernet Sauvignon from Central Italy shows deep layers of dark fruit, spice, bitter chocolate, toasted espresso bean and black olive. This is a beautifully executed wine that delivers generous softness and power on the finish.

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte has developed nicely since I last tasted it. The aromatics are now more developed and the tannins have softened a touch, which has allowed the fruit to show the full breadth of its expression. The wine remains just a touch slender, yet at the same time it is exceptionally beautiful and loaded with Cabernet Sauvignon personality. At the time of my tastings the 2007 was not ready and the estate decided against producing the 2006, so 2005 remains the current vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Boccadigabbia is one of the leading estates in the Marche. Many of the estate's vineyards are planted with international varieties, a tradition that dates back to Napoleonic times. Over the years the French varieties have become quite acclimated to the local soil and microclimate, resulting in wines of unusual pedigree.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The estate’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte flows from the glass with generous dark fruit, sweet herbs, and licorice in a soft, generous expression of Cabernet. There is quite a bit of plumpness in the glass which should allow the Akronte to develop nicely in bottle over the next few years. Hints of tar, smoke and licorice linger on the brooding yet round finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The estate’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte is even better. This deep, powerful wine explodes with the essence of black cherries, licorice, new leather and wild herbs in an utterly convincing style. The wine shows a level of density and concentration that should allow it to drink beautifully over the coming years. This sexy, racy Cabernet is another great effort from Boccadigabbia. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This set of wines from Boccadigabbia is impressive. Boccadigabbia is a fascinating estate in that its roots stretch all the way back to the reign of Napoleon III. The custom of growing French grapes dates back to that period, which explains the estate’s success, particularly with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1996 the Alessandri family added to its holdings at Boccadigabbia with the purchase of the Villamagna estate, another property with a history that dates back hundreds of years. The wines are aged in French oak; neutral barrels are for the entry-level wines and new oak for the Pix and Akronte. These remain some of the most interesting wines being made in the Marche today. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411