The 2005 Valserrano Graciano has a more “classic” nose than I anticipated, boasting a fine meaty/dried blood tincture that appears to be developing with bottle age. The palate is smooth and rounded with good acidity and delivers a fresh, soft but spicy finish with sage and white pepper. Drink now-2015.
Bodegas de la Marques own 70 hectares of vine located around Vallebuena, from which their entire fruit is sourced. Proprietor Juan Pablo de Simon, the great-grandson of its founder, told me that his aim is not to be a big winery, but remain boutique and strive for typicity in their locality. They have a long history during which they have adopted different titles includes “Marques de la Solana” and “Bodegas de Crianza SMS.” They have a strong, consistent portfolio of wines that are struck through with a sense of honesty, wines made to accompany food. Stylistically they embrace both modern Rioja, epitomized by their single varietal bottlings, and classic Rioja, for example, by only just releasing their 2001 Gran Reserva specifically to appeal to those who appreciate that style. I will commence with their impressive white wines. It is unusual to find a producer who bottles monovarietal Garnacha or Mazuelo. In selected vintages, Bodegas de la Marques produce approximately 3,000 to 4,000 bottles of each, fashioned in a more modern style and aged in barrels that have been used for the white wine. The Finca Monteviejo is the estate’s single vineyard bottling from mainly Tempranillo vines planted in 1948 by Marie-Theresa Solano, the same year as Juan Pablo’s father was born. It was partly re-planted 18 years ago. The malolactic is done in barrel and it is aged in a majority of new French oak for 16 to 18 months.
Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel: (781) 352-1100