The 2002 Casta Diva Reserva Real, produced with Moscatel grapes and aged in a kind of solera system, owes its name to the fact that it was served at the wedding of Prince Felipe and Princess Leticia of Spain. Medium amber-colored, the honeyed nose is dominated by notes of vanilla, dried apricots, with the typical aromas of Moscatel attenuated and in the background. The liquor-like palate is dense and long, with piercing flavors and balanced acidity, ending in a note of roasted nuts. A most unusual, unique Moscatel. With the freshness it shows today I guess the wine will continue evolving very slowly. They take 300 bottles each year and refill the barrels with younger wine, so this should really be a Non-Vintage solera from 2002. Drink 2013-2020.
The winery, created in 1978 by Felipe Gutierrez de la Vega, a literature and music lover – hence all the artistic references in the names of his wines – is one of the most original throughout Spain, with a wide range of wines. They are located in Parcent, in the Marina subzone of Alicante, very close to the sea, between Benidorm and Denia, where the specialty is Moscatel. The zone is very interesting because the vineyards are located at 700 meters altitude and very close to the sea, which contributes to extra freshness. All their vineyards are dry-farmed and pruned in the old goblet or bush style. They only own two hectares but rent and work a further eight. No external yeasts are used for the fermentations. Daughter Violeta, who studied oenology in Bordeaux, is slowly taking over the winemaking from her father and I have the feeling she’s bringing fresh, new ideas. I know she’s searching for high altitude, almost-forgotten, old-Grenache vineyards to produce some personal wines of her own. There are not that many wineries specializing in sweet wines in Spain; this is one of them, and for me, one of the best. Total production is around 100,000 bottles per year. A (not so new) name to follow, as the new wines show a very promising profile. Other than in Jerez, there are not so many wineries specializing in sweet wines in Spain, but Gutierrez de la Vega is one of them. They have traditionally produced a wide range of wines using Moscatel grapes. All their Moscatels, dry and sweet, share the Casta Diva name, with a subtitle to differentiate them. To complete the range, they are doing some sweet red Fondillon, the traditional rancio wine from Alicante produced in a solera system and aged for a minimum of ten years. Gutierrez de la Vega, of course, does it in his special way, and has released some single-vintage Fondillon, until he had enough old blended wine to start bottling the solera.
Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713; www.classicalwines.com
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