Bodegas Loli Casado Polus Graciano, Rioja DOCa, Spain

羅利卡薩多酒莊波魯斯格拉西亞諾紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：677

One of the few–but slowly more frequent–varietal-labelled Graciano, the 2011 Polus Graciano contains the allowed 15% of other grape, in this case Tempranillo. It fermented in stainless-steel vats with indigenous yeasts and went through malolactic fermentation in barrels with daily battonage before being aged for one year in French barriques. It has a ripe, fruit-driven nose with flower notes and hints of cereals. The palate is medium-bodied, somewhat effervescent, with abundant tannins and a discrete finish. 5,600 bottles were produced.

The 2010 Polus Graciano seems surprisingly accessible for such a backward grape variety. The color is not so dark, the aromas gravitate toward red rather than black fruits, with even some flowery notes thrown in, and the medium-bodied palate reveals a tightly-knit wine with ultra-fine tannins and good concentration and balance. It drinks better and it’s cheaper than the majority of Gracianos. Bravo! Drink 2014-2018. This 150,000-bottle family business is run by Loli Casado, the third generation of winegrowers in the Rioja Alavesa with a base of 25 hectares of vineyards in Lapuebla de Labarca and Laguardia, 45% of which were planted by her grandfather 60-80 years ago, 55% by her father and the remaining 10% were planted in 1999. In 2004, they built a new winery and increased the number of wines offered, which are produced in a clean, modern style and offered at very good prices. Various American importers, Cognac One, Spanish Vineyard Imports, Vitis Imports, Atlanta Improvement Company and Symposiums Brands.

The 2008 Polus Graciano is actually blended with 15% Tempranillo and made through delestage, i.e., unpressed grape bunches transferred into vat with pumping over for 18 days after which they spend 14 months in cask. It has a lively nose of kirsch, soy and dried herbs that reveals a touch of welcome volatility. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, slightly mealy tannins and a firm, structured finish that demonstrates good persistency. This is not a long-term Graciano, but it can be enjoyed now and over the next five years. Drink now-2016. Bodegas Loli Casado is a family-run winery that owns 25 hectares of vine in Alavesa, the oldest of which were planted more than 75-years ago. They produce a set of commendable wines and a couple of great ones under the “Jaun de Alzate” line. It is a shame that these are not presently imported into the United States. No known US importer.