Bodegas Ostatu Gloria de Ostatu, Rioja, Spain

歐斯塔圖酒莊光環(huán)紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4512

The modern and concentrated 2008 Gloria de Ostatu is pure Tempranillo selected form their oldest vineyards. It fermented in small vats and went through malolactic and 18 months aging in new French oak barrels. I must say it felt a lot less oaky than previous vintages. It was fresher, perhaps the effect of the 2008 vintage, but all of that was behind a layer of reductive aromas that took time to disappear. Quite classical with notes of forest floor and truffles, hints of leather and sandal wood with some lactic hints. More Atlantic and austere, it has plenty of grainy tannins, moderate acidity and a finish that was quite dry. Not really the hedonistic wine I remember from previous years. Good, but not exceptional, and that reductive note stayed there lurking in the background. 5,382 bottles produced.

The 2007 Gloria de Ostatu represents the top of the “singular” range. This wine started as a joint venture with Hubert de Bouard from Angelus fame, because he was interested in exploring the potential of the old Tempranillo vines in Rioja. It was first produced in the year 2000, following the production methods of a Bordeaux Grand Cru. Even though de Bouard is not directly involved anymore in the production, they keep in contact and he still buys the barrels for the wine for them. They keep the 100% new oak aging for 18-20 months but they have gradually been adjusting the extraction and fermentation methods. The wine is assembled from Tempranillo grapes selected from their three best vineyards between 60 and 80 years of age, which in 2007 were harvested on October 23. The wine has a strong lactic note in the nose (malolactic fermentation is always carried out in barrel), and faint notes of antique shop, noble woods, balsamic overtones of incense with a core of ripe black fruit. The medium to full-bodied palate shows medium acidity, some grainy tannins and very ripe fruit flavors especially for a cold, late and difficult vintage. A big, powerful modern Rioja. Only 5,000 bottles were produced in 2007. Drink 2014-2019. Ostatu is a family winery from the Alavesa zone of Rioja created in 1960 by the Saenz de Samaniego family who have a long tradition as grape growers since the 16th century to craft wines from their 34 hectares of vineyards in Samaniego, Leza y Laguardia and a further 15 hectares they work on behalf of other members of the family. They explained to me that they have two lines of wines, one they like to describe as “sensible” where they want to make traditional wines through blending grapes from different vineyards, and the “singular” one, which are single vineyard. The two ranges have different-styled labels which are quite easy to identify. They currently produce nine different wines, of which I tasted six, all of them highly recommended, and all of them sold at sensible prices. Imported by De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245; www.demaisonselections.com

The flagship 2006 Gloria de Ostatu is pure Tempranillo from three plots in Samaniego and Leza occupied by 54 and 80-year-old vines and represents Ostatu’s take on modern style Rioja. It has a vanilla-tinged nose of dark cherry and black currant fruit that is well-defined and offers an attractive scent of blood orange with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with sinewy tannins, dense black fruit with licorice and black currant towards the succulent finish. It is a well-made wine but like Ostatu’s other reds, I find myself searching for more warmth and sense of place. Drink 2014-2020. Bodegas Ostatu has been owned by the Saenz de Samaniego family for many generations but has only bottled under their own name since the 1970s. Importer: De Maison Selection LLC, Chapel Hill, NC: tel. (919) 933-4245

The 2005 Gloria de Ostatu is a modern style Rioja aged in some new oak. Purple/black in color, it reveals aromas of wood smoke, mineral, Asian spices, violets, and blackberry compote. Medium to full-bodied, structured, and intensely flavored while displaying some elegance, it has 2-3 years of aging potential and a lengthy, pure finish. It offers a drinking window extending from 2012 to 2020. Importer: Andre Tamers, De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; www.demaisonselections.com