Valdubon’s 2005 Crianza was aged for 13 months in French and American oak. It is medium purple in color with a pleasant perfume of Asian spices, cedar, violets, and blackberry. On the palate it is medium- to full-bodied with ample ripe black fruit, plenty of spice notes, good depth, a bit of underlying structure, and moderate length. Drink this solid value over the next 6-8 years. Importer: Casa Ventura; www.casaventuraimports.com

Early on the wine is dominated by buttery oak, and it’s all over the nose, palate and finish. Airing settles it down, and up from the creamy underworld comes raspberry, stewed plums and chocolate. Not the thinking man’s Ribera del Duero, but it gets the job done. Imported by Freixenet, USA.——M.S.(2/1/2008)—— 86

We tried this wine a couple of years ago and it came in at exactly the same level. Now, it’s showing mature aromas of vanilla, tobacco, leather and dried berry fruits, while the palate is offering tight cherry and raspberry flavors backed by tobacco and perky acidity. It’s probably at its classic best now as it’s registering more traditional than modern. Imported by Freixenet USA.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 87