Borgo del Tiglio Collio Ronco della Chiesa, Friuli, Italy

伯格提歐酒莊隆科基薩白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3446

The green-labeled Borgo del Tiglio 2017 Collio Ronco della Chiesa is a pure expression of Friulano and is the estate's most representative white wine. There is a little magic in Ronco della Chiesa, especially in this release of only 1,200 bottles that sees its fruit sourced from a steep vineyard that overlooks the bijoux winery and the adjacent San Lorenzo church steeple. At its core, the wine offers bright peach and apple, yet the bouquet is equally characterized by minty honeydew melon, green papaya and baked morning pastry. In fact, this would be a lovely brunch wine with quiche or tartines made with goat cheese and mountain herbs.

This green-labeled wine is gorgeous. Calm and sunny in character, the 2015 Collio Ronco della Chiesa was an ideal vintage for Friulano, with the perfect maturity of grape and very skilled production. The fruit is hand-picked from 65-year-old vines. I tasted from two bottles: one opened now, at noon, and another opened earlier this morning, at 9 a.m. The bottle opened just now has a fresher herbal side that pops out immediately. It is silky and full, with a tight texture. The bottle that had a few hours to breathe showed more minerals shining through. That one also teased out softened and pronounced floral notes, with white rose perfume, especially. Both of them were special and beautiful in their own right (with 14.5% alcohol). This is a spectacular vintage. Only 1,200 bottles were made.

Borgo del Tiglio has delivered a spectacular wine. The 2013 Collio Ronco della Chiesa is an unpredictable and ever engaging expression of the native Friulano grape that is aged in barrique for ten months. The bouquet is flirtatious and fluid with a steady stream of aromas that keeps you guessing. I picked up tones of white peach, green olive, caper, lemon custard, poached pear and cinnamon-infused apple. To say that the aromas are complex is an understatement. That's why I like the word "unpredictable" instead. The house style favors creamy consistency and smooth richness. You definitely get all that here.

You begin to feel the wine's aging maturity with this vintage. The 2012 Collio Ronco della Chiesa shows a bit of a sulfurous side with crushed stone and clay. There is more candied fruit here (as well as sightly oxidized notes in these particular samples) and heaviness on the bouquet, something that could be an aspect of the growing seasons. There is a lingering note of spicy white pepper on the close.

The 2010 Ronco della Chiesa is another huge wine. The aromas and flavors still need to develop, but the 2010 shows remarkable depth and textural richness. This old-vine Friulano, from the hillside vineyard behind the winery, looks to have a very bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. My wife and I sat down for a late summer dinner at L’Androna, the best restaurant in Grado, a gorgeous seaside town in Friuli. I had just returned the day before from two weeks in Burgundy, where I tasted just about every great 2009 white Burgundy, including virtually all of the benchmarks. Within that context, the next white I tasted should have been disappointing. Instead it was a revelation. The wine? Borgo del Tiglio’s 2009 old-vine Friulano Ronco della Chiesa. On this night, the Ronco della Chiesa was every bit the equal of the vast majority of the wines I tasted in Burgundy, and frankly far better than the average. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari is one of the leading lights in Friuli. His wines deserve far more recognition than they typically receive. Make no mistake about it, these are some of the most compelling whites being made anywhere in Italy. Various American importers, including: Volio Vino Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (720) 284-7301; Free Run, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 669-9757, ?? Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, PWM Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 525-3826