Borgo del Tiglio Collio Bianco, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

伯格提歐酒莊科利奧白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2571

The 2010 Collio Bianco is Friulano, Sauvignon and Riesling Renano, much of which is a second selection from the flagship Studio di Bianco. The 2010 is a gorgeous, lush white laced with peaches, apricots, slate, floral honey and mint. This round, expressive wine is best enjoyed while the fruit retains its juiciness. I especially like the caressing, totally inviting finish. The Collio Bianco is a lovely entry-level offering from Borgo del Tiglio. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. My wife and I sat down for a late summer dinner at L’Androna, the best restaurant in Grado, a gorgeous seaside town in Friuli. I had just returned the day before from two weeks in Burgundy, where I tasted just about every great 2009 white Burgundy, including virtually all of the benchmarks. Within that context, the next white I tasted should have been disappointing. Instead it was a revelation. The wine? Borgo del Tiglio’s 2009 old-vine Friulano Ronco della Chiesa. On this night, the Ronco della Chiesa was every bit the equal of the vast majority of the wines I tasted in Burgundy, and frankly far better than the average. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari is one of the leading lights in Friuli. His wines deserve far more recognition than they typically receive. Make no mistake about it, these are some of the most compelling whites being made anywhere in Italy. Various American importers, including: Volio Vino Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (720) 284-7301; Free Run, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 669-9757, ?? Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, PWM Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 525-3826

The 2007 Collio is noticeably big and rich in this vintage. with little in the way of aromatics but plenty of ripe fruit. Slight elements of rusticity give the Collio an unpolished quality that is typically out of place here. The Collio is the estate’s entry-level white and is largely the second selection of barrels that don’t make it into Studio di Bianco, the top white. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This is a wonderful set of new releases from Borgo del Tiglio and proprietor Nicola Manferrari. It’s a shame these wines are so hard to find in the US, because they are terrific. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

The entry-level 2006 Collio is a second selection culled from barrels that weren’t used for the higher-end Studio di Bianco bottling. A blend of Tocai, Sauvignon, Riseling and a touch of Malvasia, the wine possesses knock-out aromatics, along with notes of white peaches, jasmine and minerals that grow in the glass as the wine gains volume. This finessed, detailed white closes with a long, crisp finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Borgo del Tiglio is located off a small square in Cormons. This rustic county estate captures the essence of rural Italy. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari farms 8 hectares from which he bottles a minuscule 23,000 bottles. These artisan wines are subtle, and perhaps easy to overlook, but make no mistake about it, Manferrari makes some of Friuli’s most inspired wines. Readers who enjoy the mineral-driven wines of Chablis and the Loire will delight in these offerings. Winemaking decisions vary from vintage to vintage but in 2006 most of the whites did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Manferrari favors French oak for aging. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

The 2005 Collio (Tocai, Sauvignon, Riesling) is a great introduction to the house style. It reveals richly honeyed fruit, spices, smoke, minerals and flowers, with a sweet, ample personality as well as more roundness than the Tocai. The Collio bottling is made from a second selection of the barrels that are used for the estate’s more important Studio di Bianco bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari makes some of the region’s most elegant wines at his small estate in the Collio. Manferrari is part of the movement that sought to improve quality in the region by focusing on high-quality vineyard practices beginning in the early 1980s. He and his contemporaries wanted to make riper wines, which also required a shift away from the prevailing Schiopetto-influenced school of thought and a look towards Burgundy rather than Germany as a source of inspiration. In the cellar Manferrari is quite content to let the wines express the qualities of the vintage, so there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to malolactic fermentations for his whites, among other topics, although all the wines are aged in French oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from Nicola Manferrari and Borgo del Tiglio. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644