Bouchard Pere & Fils Pezerolles, Pommard, France

寶尚父子佩澤園干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3466

The Bouchard 2008 Pommard Pezerolles mingles red raspberry and fraise des bois with blond tobacco on an alluring nose and a silken-textured, tenderly fruited palate. There is underlying extract here but also levity and almost delicate elegance. With a generosity that seems to typify the reaction of this site to 2008 vintage characteristics, this adds savory salinity for a truly enticing, lip-licking finish. Even thought it will probably “l(fā)ive” significantly longer, I would plan to enjoy this over the next 6-8 years, making sure some is consumed sooner. Unfortunately, I did not have a chance to taste this year’s Bouchard rendition of Rugiens. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.)Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Blond tobacco and fresh ginger pungency mingle with red fruits in the nose of Bouchard’s 2007 Pommard Pezerolles, another of their 2007s to display brightness unusual for the vintage, although the persistently sappy fruit and attractive pungency of its finish are interrupted by some rather lip-numbing tannin of a sort unlikely to be shed as a result of bottle aging. Enjoy this nonetheless distinctive and admirably-concentrated Pommard over the next 4-5 years. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.)Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

A wine that shows structure and the flavors of wood aging. The fruit is dense and concentrated, with a foursquare shape, full of berries, acidity and spices. The hard edge of tannins promise aging. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 90

The relatively unknown Pezerolles Vineyard is at the far northern end of Pommard, touching Beaune above Les Epenots. It produces wine that seems softer than many Pommards, with rich fruit, the tannins firm but definitely playing second fiddle. It is the smoky plum fruit with just a dash of acidity that makes this immensely pleasing.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 91

An outstanding wine with spicy red cherry aromas, the 2002 Pommard Pezerolles (domaine) explodes on the palate with copious quantities of blackberries, dark cherries, and Asian spices. Its concentrated core of fruit is boisterous, pure, and harmonious. In addition, prodigiously ripened tannin can be detected in its lengthy finish. Projected maturity: 2005-2014. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575