Redolent of strawberries and raspberries, this slightly sweet, very fruity sparkler is made of Freisa, a little-known Piedmontese grape. From veteran envelope-pusher Randall Grahm, it’s overtly juicy—so much so you’d swear it was infused with berries—but downright delicious. The soft mouthfeel makes it eminently drinkable. Believe the label, which warns of the potential for uninhibited behavior after drinking. ——M.M.(12/1/2001)—— 87
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