If you’ve forgotten the flavors of this once super-popular fortified wine from Sicily, it’s time to repay a visit to Marsala. Florio’s Dry version offers fragrant notes of caramel, candied fruit, maple syrup and citrus peel over a creamy texture. Marsala is often used as a cooking aid, butforget that: try it as an aperitif wine with cubes of Gorgonzola or Roquefort cheese.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 87