Capichera Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, Sardinia, Italy

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The 2007 Vermentino Classico is made in a late-harvest style that emphasizes candied, tropical fruit intermingled with floral elements and a sweet spiciness that is unusual for a wine aged and vinified in stainless steel. This beautifully-balanced, generous wine closes with a long, clean finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. I have long been a fan of the wines from Capichera, but this set of releases was not quite at the level I had expected. Hopefully the recent arrival of consulting oenologist Dante Scaglione will help smooth out some of the inconsistencies in the estate’s wines.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2006 Vermentino is loaded with character and complexity. It offers an array of aromas and flavors, including suggestions of smoke, minerals, oak, honey, mint and sage. This medium to full-bodied white should develop nicely in bottle. Still, I would prefer to enjoy it in its exuberant youth. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This Sardinian white is a ripe, sun-baked heavyweight, but in a good way. Plump, with lemon-curd aromas; the flavors are sweet and sugary at first, but later turn to complex apple, citrus, pineapple and star anise. Great body, but on the low-acid, soft side. Drink now.——M.S.(2/1/2005)—— 88