Carl Loewen Riesling Neun Funf

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Ever-innovative, Loewen has attempted with a new wine, 2009 Riesling Neun Funf – named “nine five” for its total alcohol – to tap an increasing market for genuinely light, dry-tasting Riesling, which while such may have been the Mosel or even the Germany-wide tradition for centuries now, sorely needs re-introducing. “If I’d have called it ‘Riesling Kabinett trocken’ nobody would have bought it,” claims Loewen (though clearly that characterization applies to his customers and can’t necessarily be generalized). As it is, he presented the wine officially in mid-April and within 6 weeks its 8,000 bottles were sold-out. The vineyard source is relatively cool parcels that can hang late without accumulating grape sugar, “and this year,” he adds, “we’ve been farming certain parcels with precisely this result in mind.” Grapefruit and pumpkin aromas lead to a refreshing yet fascinatingly musky, earthy set of flavors on a palate of surprisingly alluring, faintly waxy texture for a wine so light. This might be simple and designed for immediate consumption, but it is highly distinctive and completely irresistible. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300