Carl Loewen Detzemer Maximiner Pralat Trocken Christopher's Wein

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1145

I am not always convinced by Loewen’s cuvee – named for his older son – that receives time in newer casks, but the 2008 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling Christopher’s Wein gives an impressive, rather Burgundian account of itself and its once renowned but long-neglected site. Relatively low in acidity in this company (especially following a borderline screechy Riesling “Alte Reben” bottling), this features with ample stuffing and handsome leanness. Discreet notes of lanolin and spice from the barrel accompany lemon oil, bitter herbs, and high-toned framboise, and there is enough primary juiciness to satisfy refreshment. This should be fascinating to follow although I would hesitate to speculate on its longevity. Due to an attack of vectors that pierced the vines, ripening was retarded and came partly through sheer dehydration, making for a personality Loewen says he has never encountered before in this wine. Karl-Josef Loewen associates the measurably high dry extracts of his 2008s with their ability to buffer high acids but also to convey mineral characteristics. He was pleased to point out that not one of his dry wines reached 12% alcohol this vintage, and only partly on account of that vintage itself. Especially with his oldest vines, pruning for multiple short canes and de-leafing at critical junctures are among the techniques being employed to diminish the accretion of sugar and maximize flavor. Small berries and clusters are also critical, says Loewen, who does not believe in green harvesting. “The trick,” he opines, “is to make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches.”Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300