Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1286

Loewen relates that his 2009 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was harvested in mid-December under snow and frost by a crew he picked with care and trepidation, since these wind-exposed terraces are treacherous even in clement weather. The result – tasting essentially like a cross between T.B.A. and Eiswein – was well worth risking limb. White raisin, candied citrus rind, caramel, musk, peach and quince preserves inform the nose as well as a viscous, luscious palate shot through with bright, exhilarating fresh citrus and saliva-inducing salinity. It’s the mineral dimension here and the sense of continuous interactivity that ward-off any sense of sweet-sour awkwardness such as accrued to the corresponding Eiswein and Beerenauslese. The finish here sets the tongue aquiver and the tonsils vibrating. There are around 80 liters of this (as there are of the associated B.A.) and I would anticipate 30 or more years of stimulation at the hands of this elixir.Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300