Much of the improvements made to the celebrated Paje cru are thanks to the Roagna family that owns a large part of it. Here is a cellared Riserva with darker concentration and heft followed by broad aromas of tobacco, leather, spice and plummy fruit. Mineral notes and cassis play a part and the wine needs some time in the glass to fully open.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 90