The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento is only released in magnums. I was a little surprised by this wine because, although it shows a beautiful degree of dark concentration and density, the wine also seemed tired and mature, especially on the nose. It seems to be evolving very quickly. Beyond the dark cherry flavors are hints of smoked bacon fat and Indian spice market. The wine is pretty much ready to drink on release. Drink: 2014-2019.
Owned by Massimo Ferragamo of Florentine shoe-cobbling nobility, Castiglion del Bosco is one of those ambitious estates that was conceived of and developed in the years immediately prior to the 2008 financial meltdown. You can see the signs of that era’s optimism in the estate’s DNA. The winery and its case goods room are massive, high-rolling club members can rent private storage cellars on site and the actual Castiglion hamlet was loving restored into million-dollar apartments available for purchase on a quasi timeshare model. That last idea didn’t float and today the property is a gorgeous luxury hotel instead. Signs of pre-2008 optimism are also evident in the wines, patently made in a plump, yielding and supple style with broad international appeal. But times have changed and this set of new releases marks a departure from the sunny-soft toward a savory-streamlined approach.
Importer: Maison Marques et Domaine, www.mmdusa.net