Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Inflorescence La Parcelle Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, France

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The 2003 Blanc de Noirs Inflorescence La Parcelle is a remarkable achievement in this torrid vintage. Berries, flowers and sweet spices meld together beautifully in this soft, approachable La Parcelle. Despite its opulence, the wine possesses remarkable freshness and balance. The 2003 isn’t the most complex La Parcelle, but it is among the most gratifying vintages to drink young. La Parcelle is located in Celles-sur-Ource. The average age of the vines is 35 years. Disgorged April, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Once again, I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Cedric Bouchard. What else is new? My visit to the property earlier in the year was a revelatory experience. I got a little lost navigating my way through the sleepy village of Celles-sur-Ource, but when I happened along a meticulous, obsessively tended vineyard I knew I was close to the cellar. As exceptional as the young wines were, I was most struck by the capacity of these Champagnes to develop complexity in bottle. The 2004 Haute-Lemblee, which I scored 97 points two years ago, is living up to all of its promise, while the 2002 Creux d’Enfer, a wine I reviewed in my recent profile on Bouchard on www.erobertparker.com, left me speechless. Readers seeking to discover the finest in Champagne owe it to themselves to check out the wines of Cedric Bouchard. Minuscule yields, organically farmed old-vine parcels, a non-interventionalist approach in the winery and cellar and Bouchard’s inspired vision elevate these single-vintage, lieu-dit wines to the summit of Champagne. The wines are bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no dosage, leaving only the indelible stamp of vintage, vineyard and grape variety as interpreted by this immensely gifted vigneron. For what it is worth, these are some of the most treasured bottles I own.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2001 Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs La Parcelle is another richly-textured, sumptuous wine from Cedric Bouchard. A compelling array of hazelnuts, pears and sweet spices emerges from this perfumed, mesmerizing Champagne. The wine possesses a weightless, ethereal texture that recalls a profound grand cru red Burgundy. There aren't too many producers who made vintage wine in 2001, and this effort is certainly among the finest wines of that tricky year. The La Parcelle spent 80 months on its lees prior to being disgorged with no dosage. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. The explosive, kaleidoscopic Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard are some of the most compelling wines coming out of the region today. Quite simply, this set of new releases left me speechless and literally shaking my head in awe. Readers should do whatever they can to experience these magnificent wines. Bouchard farms just under three hectares of vineyards. There are two ranges; the Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchard's father, while the Roses de Jeanne wines are made from vineyards Bouchard owns himself. The vineyards are cropped to yields that would be considered miniscule in any region in the world, but are shockingly low compared to the average in Champagne, where high yields are prevalent. Because of the low yields, the wines reveal a very fine and subtle mousse. The wines are made from hand harvested fruit, crushed by foot and fermented with natural yeasts. Bouchard prefers stainless steel, as he believes the neutrality of steel allows for the maximum amount of expression of his philosophy, which is single-vineyard,single vintage and single-variety bottlings. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and are disgorged with no dosage. Unfortunately the wines do not carry a disgorgement date on the label, although I am told that will be changing next year.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The NV (2004) Blanc de Noirs Inflorescence La Parcelle is a huge, powerful wine bursting with red berries, spices, flowers and licorice. All of the elements come together gracefully in a dramatic, large-scaled wine of incomparable class and elegance as layers of fruit float across the palate. La Parcelle emerges from a parcel of 35 year-old Pinot vines in Cote de Bechalin, a lieu-dit in Bouchard’s hometown of Celles-sur-Ource. This is the first vintage of La Parcelle that Bouchard made from start to finish. Prior releases had been produced by the previous owner of the vineyard. If there is such a thing as a value wine in the lineup, this is it. Disgorged April 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Cedric Bouchard remains at the forefront of innovation in Champagne. Yields are minuscule, even by the most exacting definition. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts and are bottled unfined and unfiltered with no dosage. Bouchard is adamant that he wants to stay at a size where he alone can do all of the work, so readers should not expect production to increase in a meaningful way, at least not any time soon. There is a new Champagne in the works, though, a 100% Pinot Noir from La Proele, a tiny parcel of just 0.025 hectares (15 rows) planted with 10 different Pinot rootstocks. This is the same parcel Bouchard had used for his Coteaux Champenois Pinots, a project he has since abandoned, as he wasn’t happy with the quality of the wines. The 2007 and 2008 Coteaux Champenois Chardonnays are still in the cellar, but here, too, it appears the still-wine experiment was short-lived. I am not sure anyone will mind too much given the quality of Bouchard’s Champagnes. Bouchard plans to phase out the Infloresence brand by 2013/2014, once the ownership of the respective vineyards passes into his direct ownership. At that point, all of the wines will be sold under the Roses de Jeanne brand. Unfortunately the already tiny production is down by as much as 50% for the 2007 La Boloree, Haute-Lemblee and Creux d’Enfer because of hail damage, so the wines will be harder to find than usual. Furthermore, I was not able to taste the 2009 Les Ursules, but will report on that wine as soon as I can. Incidentally, 2010 is the last year Les Ursules will be released as a non-vintage wine. These remain some of the most spectacular wines being made anywhere in the world, and are well worth the effort of finding them. Frankly, I can’t think of too many wines I would rather drink.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404