The 2001 Mammolo, a Merlot, warm in aroma and very full in flavor, features ripe plum fruit, smoky and tarry sensations, a caressing texture, and much supple density. It will last another dozen years. Cennatoio is unlikely to be a household word even among connoisseurs of Tuscan wines, but this small estate (40 acres of vineyards), located high in the hills above Panzano at close to 1800 feet above sea level, is capable of making outstanding wine in favorable vintages. The line is far too crowded with different wines, and owner Leandro Alessi, despite the encouragement of his winemaker Gabriella Tani, seems loath to reduce the number. With a more focused line, the wines would unquestionably have a larger, and well deserved, visibility, but these are matters which cannot be resolved here.Importer: Panebianco, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560