The 2007 Rosso di Montalcino is plump, juicy and utterly irresistible. Sweet red cherries lead to violets, spices and tobacco as this graceful, elegant, mid-weight wine opens up in the glass. A lovely vein of minerality frames the long, generous finish. This is another impeccable and classy wine from Cerbaiona. Though not inexpensive, the estate’s Rosso does offer a compelling glimpse into the genius of one of Montalcino’s most inspired producers. Occasionally the Rosso can be found at favorable pricing, and it is a must-buy. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. If I had to put together a short list of the most privileged spots in Montalcino for Sangiovese, Cerbaiona would be near or at the top of that list. These white, poor soils encourage the vines to develop deep root systems and yield wines of notable structure. In top vintages the wines are nothing short of spectacular. Production remains tiny, at around 7,000 bottles for the Brunello, which I was reminded of as I negotiated the cramped cellars while tasting through a number of wines with proprietor Diego Molinari. Of the vintages in cask, so far 2006 looks to be the most promising. Readers in search of the finest artisan wines in Tuscany will find much to admire here.Importers: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484