Aubry Le Nombre d'Or Brut, Champagne, France

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The 2007 Brut Le Nombre d’Or Campaniae Veteres Vites captures the Aubry style at its very best. White flowers, citrus, crushed rocks and fresh mint are supported by clean, piercing veins of acidity in this vibrant, chiseled Champagne. I especially like the energy and pure focus of the 2007. A wine of true pedigree and personality, the 2007 should drink nicely for a number of years. Today, it is exceptionally beautiful, but it could use another year in bottle. The 2007 is 30% Chardonnay, 30% Petit Meslier, 20% Arbanne and 20% Pinot Blanc. Disgorgement date: June 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022. Aubry crafts some of the most exciting and distinctive wines in Champagne. This small, family-run estate is one of the few properties in the region to use Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau – traditional grapes seldom seen today. There is a purity to the fruit at Aubry that is striking. The wines typically see very low dosage of just 2-3 grams. The truth is these wines don’t need much. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique, compelling Champagnes.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2005 Brut Le Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites is an unusual wine in that it incorporates all six grapes that are permitted within Champagne. The 2005 is a wonderfully nuanced, detailed Champagne, yet it also presents slightly evolved notes that are finding themselves into a number of 2005s. The 2005 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The blend is 25% Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc (co-fermented), 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne, 10% Meunier and 10% Chardonnay. Disgorged January 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Aubry is one of the most intriguing producers in Champagne because the wines are so expressive. Maybe it is the inclusion of Champagne’s ancient varieties in some of these blends, or the low atmosphere style of some of the wines, or maybe it’s just the personality of the Aubry brothers themselves, but I always find so many admirable qualities in these wines.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2004 Brut Le Nombre d'Or Campanae Veteres Vites is a blend of all of the grapes found in Champagne; 25% Fromenteau and Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne, 5% Pinot Meunier and 5% Chardonnay. This is another gorgeous wine graced with exquisite elegance. An expressive, well-delineated bouquet leads to a crystalline fruit in this superbly crafted Champagne. The Veteres Vites gains volume and breath on the mid-palate but never loses its essential minerality and focus. My sense is that the wine is still holding back quite a bit in reserve. It should be even more fabulous in a few years’ time. Disgorged September, 2010 and bottled with 3 grams of dosage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Aubry doesn’t seem to get much attention in hard-core Champagne circles, but make no mistake about it; these are some of the most unique wines being made in the region today. It is hard to go wrong with any of these fine new releases. Readers should note that the Sable Le Nombre d’Or wines are bottled with a liqueur de tirage that contains about 16 grams of sugar, instead of the more customary 24 or so, which results in a lower pressure Champagne. The lower pressure style yields wines with very fine and small bubbles, not to mention tons of class.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300