Francis Boulard Les Rachais Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, Champagne, France

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The 2006 Brut Nature Rachais, 100% Chardonnay, shows the richness and volume from vinification in oak barrels and the extended time on its lees. Hazelnuts, dried herbs, dried flowers spices and light, floral-infused honey all meld together in this creamy, inviting Champagne. Here the style is naturally a bit more oxidative than in some of Boulard’s entry-level wines, but the balance is the same; which is to say impeccable. Unfortunately neither bottle I tasted was perfect in its aromatics. Disgorged July 24, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Francis Boulard’s new releases are some of the most compelling, personality-driven wines I tasted this year. A number of these releases had only been disgorged for a short time before I tasted them, and two wines are based on the 2008 and 2010 harvests, both colder years, so readers will have to be patient. The only question mark is the 2006 Les Rachais, where I ran across two bottles that were less than perfect. Boulard prefers vinification in oak with ambient yeasts and tends toward the low end of the spectrum when it comes to dosage. These handmade, artisan wines are well worth checking out. I loved them.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

The NV Brut Nature Les Rachais is Chardonnay from a single plot of 37-year-old vines in Massif St Thierry. This parcel has been certified organic since 2004. I am all for natural methods if they improve quality, but this appears to be a case where the base vintage (2007) may have proved too challenging. The Rachais possesses unclean aromas and flavors that detract considerably from what might have been a fine Champagne. This is Lot M9, disgorged June, 2010. Anticipated maturity:This is a strong set of wines from Boulard. Although I tasted the Brut Nature (zero-dosage) versions, Boulard also bottles these wines in Extra Brut versions with 5 grams of dosage. I am told disgorgement dates will appear on back labels in the near future.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191