A very good value, and the only one of Jean de Cibeins’ numerous cuvees I had an opportunity to sample, the 2004 Corbieres Marquise de Puivert mingles dominant Syrah with Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre. Evocative notes of herbs and shrubs (rosemary and pine resin in particular) waft from the glass, together with fresh red raspberry. Juicy berry fruit and resinous herbs fill the mouth and polished tannins (without benefit of wood) do nothing to detract from a satisfying, sappy, freshly-fruited finishing cling. This exhibits considerable refinement and brightness for its appellation.A Jack Siler Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 45 45 23 59