The outstanding 1993 Syrah (about 70% Syrah and the rest Grenache and Mourvedre) has a black capsule and white label to distinguish it from the Cuvee Tradition. It does not say Syrah on the label. It is nearly twice the price of Estanilles' other offerings. The wine is aged in small casks, of which 50% are new, and, remarkably, the wine's density and concentration have sucked up the new oak like a sponge. The deep ruby/purple color is followed by classic aromas of cassis, licorice, black-cherry, and toasty vanillin. It boasts terrific concentration, low acidity, a fleshy, full-bodied palate, and a long, heady finish. This gorgeous, rich, seriously made wine should drink well for a decade. This property merits a serious look. Faugeres, an appellation in the Languedoc-Roussillon, is enjoying newfound success.Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474