Chehalem Corral Creek Dry Riesling, Chehalem Mountains, USA

切哈姆考拉溪雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：2751

The 2014 Dry Riesling Corral Creek Vineyard was cropped at 2.5 tons per acre and works well on the nose, offering well defined, petrol-tinged fruit, honeysuckle and beeswax scents emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, quite harmonious and poised with citrus fruit, pineapple and white peach on the finish. This is recommended.

The 2013 Dry Riesling Corral Creek Vineyard, from a block right on front of the winery, has a resinous bouquet with touches of lanolin and yellow plum emerging, though it needs just a little more precision. The palate is balanced with Granny Smith apples to the fore. Quite tense in the mouth, linear and strict with citrus peel on the terse finish. I can imagine this marrying well with fruits de mer.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. “I waited as long as I could to pick Pinot,” relates proprietor Harry Peterson-Nedry of 2011, when his team engaged in a flurry of harvest activity that finished-up November 2; and he is one of the many to find what was achieved not just an improbable success, but a collection of Pinots likely to go down as among the Willamette’s most exciting ever. I wish I could personally be that enthusiastic about his 2011s in particular – the 2010s at a similar stage struck me as altogether finer – but there is certainly a lot to like among them; and Peterson-Nedry’s avid explorations of multiple white wine grapes – of which I tasted 2012s as well as some later-released 2011s – again prove meritorious. (Consult my issue 202 report for an account of veteran Peterson-Nedry’s background and the character of his three estate vineyards.) Peterson-Nedry’s daughter Wynne – with whom I tasted this year, and about whom I also wrote briefly in issue 202 – is clearly in command of the details in both the estate’s vineyards and cellar. Although a proportion of whole clusters with stems is usually retained in the Ridgecrest fruit, in 2011 all of the Chehalem Pinots were entirely de-stemmed. Musts were very selectively – and then minimally – chaptalized, with the finished alcohol levels ranging between 12.5-13%. Despite their lateness of harvest, these Pinots were as usual – with the exception of the “Reserves” – bottled the following September. (Note that I’ve replaced the word “three” with the Arabic numeral 3 in the name of Chehalem’s “3 Vineyard” bottlings since that is how it appears on their new labels, which, incidentally – in my un-professional design opinion – are uniquely eye-catching little masterpieces of information density without clutter.) Tel. (503) 537-5553

The Chehalem 2011 Riesling Corral Creek – like its predecessors – is based on a single clone of unknown origin planted at the lowest part of this vineyard (and nearly adjacent to Highway 99W, whose traffic jams in this sector will be familiar to most folks who have spent significant time visiting wineries in the area). From tank, this brims with juicy apple, pineapple, and peach, with a succulent mid-palate, but a tartly green apple and pronouncedly phenolic edge that somewhat hardens the finish and will, I suspect, never permit of the sort of juicy refreshment, charm or nuance that accrued to the ostensibly lesser Three Vineyard bottling. The affable, insightful, and tireless advocate of Willamette Valley viticulture, ex-chemist Harry Peterson-Nedry planted Ridgecrest Vineyards – the path-breaking viticultural incursion on Ribbon Ridge – in 1980, bottling his first estate wine a decade later. In 1993, Bill and Cathy Stoller became partners with Peterson-Nedry and planted their own vineyard in the Dundee Hills. In 1995, Peterson-Nedry purchased from friends – and subsequently re-grafted a significant portion of – Corral Creek Vineyards on the side of Parrett Mountain, where the present utilitarian winery is located, and since then, another slice of Ribbon Ridge contiguous with Ridgecrest, dubbed Wind Ridge, has come into production. Peterson-Nedry has been an eloquent proponent of Willamette Valley white wines, as well as of a style of Pinot designed to capture bright fruit, what he calls “fine-boned structure,” and elegance, and avoid any heavy or cosmetic impression; though in 2011 (which I tasted from barrel) and 2010, it strikes me that this vision has occasionally been followed to a fault, and many tasters might welcome in some of these wines a bit more flesh and fat; slightly better-buffered tartness; or a bit more depth. Peterson-Nedry is unafraid to chaptalize and notes that “we are strong believers in making sure that we have pHs and total acidities that are appropriate,” which, for example, meant most 2009s and certain lots from 2010 were acidified. “We’re not afraid of acid,” he says, driving home the point, “We have an acid style.” The fruit is generally destemmed and given a week (at times closer to two weeks) of cold soak. Fermentation is spontaneous and in a wide range of vessels, including some wooden uprights, with both punch-downs and pump-overs, though both sparingly. The young wine is settled for 2-4 days before going to barrels, not more – and usually less – than 30% of which are new, for typically 10-11 months. Since 2008, bottling has been exclusively with screwcap, with which Peterson-Nedry says he has been conducting trials since 1994. After pursuing an unrelated scientific career, Peterson-Nedry’s daughter Wynne took an oenology degree at U.C. Davis in 2008 and has found her way via New Zealand, Burgundy, and California back home to Chehalem where she recently assumed winemaking responsibility from her father’s decade-long right-hand Mike Eyres, who will be returning to his native New Zealand. Tel. (503) 537-5553

The Chehalem 2011 Riesling Corral Creek – like its predecessors – is based on a single clone of unknown origin planted at the lowest part of this vineyard (and nearly adjacent to Highway 99W, whose traffic jams in this sector will be familiar to most folks who have spent significant time visiting wineries in the area). From tank, this brims with juicy apple, pineapple, and peach, with a succulent mid-palate, but a tartly green apple and pronouncedly phenolic edge that somewhat hardens the finish and will, I suspect, never permit of the sort of juicy refreshment, charm or nuance that accrued to the ostensibly lesser Three Vineyard bottling. The affable, insightful, and tireless advocate of Willamette Valley viticulture, ex-chemist Harry Peterson-Nedry planted Ridgecrest Vineyards – the path-breaking viticultural incursion on Ribbon Ridge – in 1980, bottling his first estate wine a decade later. In 1993, Bill and Cathy Stoller became partners with Peterson-Nedry and planted their own vineyard in the Dundee Hills. In 1995, Peterson-Nedry purchased from friends – and subsequently re-grafted a significant portion of – Corral Creek Vineyards on the side of Parrett Mountain, where the present utilitarian winery is located, and since then, another slice of Ribbon Ridge contiguous with Ridgecrest, dubbed Wind Ridge, has come into production. Peterson-Nedry has been an eloquent proponent of Willamette Valley white wines, as well as of a style of Pinot designed to capture bright fruit, what he calls “fine-boned structure,” and elegance, and avoid any heavy or cosmetic impression; though in 2011 (which I tasted from barrel) and 2010, it strikes me that this vision has occasionally been followed to a fault, and many tasters might welcome in some of these wines a bit more flesh and fat; slightly better-buffered tartness; or a bit more depth. Peterson-Nedry is unafraid to chaptalize and notes that “we are strong believers in making sure that we have pHs and total acidities that are appropriate,” which, for example, meant most 2009s and certain lots from 2010 were acidified. “We’re not afraid of acid,” he says, driving home the point, “We have an acid style.” The fruit is generally destemmed and given a week (at times closer to two weeks) of cold soak. Fermentation is spontaneous and in a wide range of vessels, including some wooden uprights, with both punch-downs and pump-overs, though both sparingly. The young wine is settled for 2-4 days before going to barrels, not more – and usually less – than 30% of which are new, for typically 10-11 months. Since 2008, bottling has been exclusively with screwcap, with which Peterson-Nedry says he has been conducting trials since 1994. After pursuing an unrelated scientific career, Peterson-Nedry’s daughter Wynne took an oenology degree at U.C. Davis in 2008 and has found her way via New Zealand, Burgundy, and California back home to Chehalem where she recently assumed winemaking responsibility from her father’s decade-long right-hand Mike Eyres, who will be returning to his native New Zealand.Tel. (503) 537-5553